People spend tons of money trying to reverse their wrinkles. But it’s so much easier to avoid them in the first place. The world’s best anti-aging cream lets you do just that. It’s also cheap and easily available.
But there’s a catch. The very ingredients in this cream that protect us might be causing other problems most people don’t even know about.
Thankfully, new developments that I’m going to share with you in this article are solving these safety concerns.
Table of Contents
- Why Sunscreen Matters
- The Problems
- Key Developments
- The Best Sunscreen and Regional Availability
- References
Why Sunscreen Matters
So what’s the cream? It’s sunscreen. But unless you know about these new developments and how to choose a sunscreen correctly, you might inadvertently be causing yourself harm.
But first, how does sunscreen fight against the signs of skin aging?
In addition to visible light, the sun also bathes us in ultraviolet (UV) radiation. We can’t see it, but we certainly see its effects. It breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin, eroding elasticity and firmness. It also damages DNA and stimulates pigment cells, creating age spots and other discolorations. All of this dramatically accelerates aging. It also increases our chances of skin cancer.
Even though we didn’t understand the mechanisms, we knew something in sunlight caused damage as early as the 1800s. By 1889, we knew the problem was UV radiation. And that led to the first chemical sunscreen in 1891, formulated by a doctor in Germany.
The consistent use of sunscreen blunts the sun’s effects. It’s like a wall that guards the health of our skin from attacks that can damage it. It can have a dramatic impact on aging. Here's a striking photo of a 92-year-old who used sunscreen on her face but not on her neck for over 40 years [1].
In a landmark 2013 trial of 903 adults, the group who used sunscreen every day didn't show any signs of new skin aging after 4.5 years [2].
A follow-up study in 2016 showed that using sunscreen not only stops aging but can even reverse signs of aging in the skin [3].
And what about skin cancers? It’s effective there, too. After surveying the evidence, authors of a recent meta-analysis concluded: "The highest-quality evidence available suggests that sunscreens do prevent skin cancer" [4].
But I need to address an objection here. You’ll hear people say we’re using more sunscreen, but skin cancer rates are rising. They go on to conclude sunscreen must not help and we don’t need to use it [5].
Let’s untangle this. First, are we using more sunscreen? Yes. In the U.S., for instance, reported use has climbed from 25 to 33% since 2000 [6].
Second, are skin cancer rates rising? Yes, this is happening, too. The rate of people being diagnosed with melanoma, for instance, has been climbing in the U.S., the U.K., Australia, and elsewhere [7].
But does this mean wearing sunscreen is a waste of time? No. There are several other factors that could explain the pattern we’re seeing. For one thing, when people wear sunscreen, they spend more time in the sun. This is because they feel protected. And yet most people don’t use an adequate amount of sunscreen. So they end up with higher levels of damaging exposure [7].
Another key factor is an aging population. People are having fewer kids and living longer, shifting the proportion of people over 65 upward [8].
Skin cancers are much more common the older we get. This chart from the U.K., for example, shows peak melanoma diagnoses in the 70s [9].
The changing demographics alone can explain the trend with skin cancers we see.
Here’s what isn’t in question. We know damage from UV radiation is a primary driver for skin cancer. And we know sunscreens, when used properly, can greatly reduce UV exposure. So we should be very skeptical of claims that using them aren’t doing any good.
The conclusion backed by the evidence is this: the development of sunscreens has been a big help when it comes to our skin health.
The Problems
But it turns out we’d fixed one problem — the effects of UV damage — only to possibly create another one. Let me explain.
There are two main types of sunscreens: mineral and chemical. Chemical sunscreens have been popular because they often give better protection, are easy to apply, and can resist water well.
But there’s a downside. Many of the ingredients used for chemical sunscreens can be absorbed through the skin. A study in 2020 showed that all six tested active ingredients were absorbed into the blood at levels above the FDA's safety thresholds [10].
The study doesn’t show harm from these chemicals, it just shows that they are absorbed at higher quantities than the pre-existing safety thresholds.
Is that something to worry about? The problem is that, presently, the evidence is unclear. A review article in 2017 surveys numerous studies on the potential impacts of these chemicals. The evidence indicates some chemical sunscreen ingredients can disrupt hormones or lead to developmental problems [11].
A much more recent meta-analysis, published last year, makes a similar claim. There’s evidence that some chemicals used in sunscreens can interfere with our bodies’ hormones [12].
But the kinds of evidence we have at this point have significant limitations. First, it’s almost all animal or other kinds of studies that aren’t with human subjects. Second, the doses used in studies are often significantly higher than are likely to occur in normal circumstances. All this means that, as one author puts it, "Whether concentration resulted from daily use and/or environmental contact possesses a realistic hazard to humans and other organisms is still unknown" [11].
So the area is controversial. But this uncertainty has led the U.S. FDA to request more data on 12 common ingredients before deciding whether they are safe and effective [13].
Now it's important to note that saying we need more data is not the same as saying these ingredients are unsafe. The authors of that 2020 study on absorption state, "These findings do not indicate that individuals should refrain from the use of sunscreen" [10].
I certainly get the logic. But, personally, I don’t want to be putting chemicals in my body when we aren’t sure what their long-term effects might be. This is particularly true when we have some reasons to suspect they aren’t good.
So what about mineral sunscreens? The two most common ingredients used here are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These compounds are not absorbed through the skin.
This lack of absorption led authors of a 2024 study to conclude mineral sunscreens are safest, having the fewest potential adverse effects [12].
But there are drawbacks. This type of sunscreen can leave a white, hazy residue on the skin. It also doesn’t hold up as well in the water as chemical sunscreens.
Key Developments
So we seem to be left with a choice between sunscreens with ingredients that may be dangerous and sunscreens that are unpleasant to wear. Fortunately, recent innovations are radically altering the landscape.
Let’s start with chemical sunscreens. Scientists have developed new compounds that are superior to the traditional options. One of the most recent is phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB). This chemical has two very attractive qualities. First, it absorbs UV radiation across a wide spectrum. And second, it forms relatively large particle sizes. This yields a very low penetration of the skin [14].
In other words, it isn’t likely to be absorbed in any significant amount.
There are several other chemicals developed for sunscreens that fit this general profile. Bemotrizinol, a broad-spectrum compound, has also been found to have limited absorption [15].
Other examples include Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T 150) [16] and Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb A2B) [17].
Compared to traditional options, these newer sunscreen chemicals are a huge improvement. They’re safer — with much lower absorption rates. They often have a broader range of UV coverage. And they are more stable when exposed to light, maintaining their effectiveness.
There have also been upgrades in mineral sunscreen technology. In older forms, the particle size was really large. One of the benefits of this was that it was too big to absorb into the skin. But the downside, as we already mentioned, was that it left a pronounced whitish haze.
Newer forms have greatly reduced the particle size. These nanoparticle formulations have a less noticeable haze. They’re easier to apply evenly and can offer enhanced UV protection.
But that raises a worry. If the particle sizes have gotten a lot smaller, do we now run the risk of absorbing them? One trial looking specifically at zinc oxide nanoparticles in a sunscreen concluded absorption is still very low [18].
The one caution here is with spray sunscreens. When airborne, these small particles might be inhaled and make their way into the body. This is why some expert bodies have recommended against the use of nanoparticles in sprayable products [19].
The Best Sunscreen and Regional Availability
So it looks like our problems when it comes to sunscreen are solved. We can just steer clear of the older chemical sunscreens and use the ones we’ve been describing here instead. When it comes to the newer chemical sunscreens, though, it’s not so simple. Depending upon where you live, you might need to hop a flight to buy them.
Here’s the problem. The European Union and Australia have been proactive about adopting the newer chemical sunscreens with a better safety profile. But many other places lag behind. Incredibly, in the U.S., the FDA hasn’t added any sunscreen chemicals to the approved list since 1999.
So if you live in one of those markets, what are your options? First, it’s important to choose a sunscreen that has broad spectrum protection. This means it guards the skin against both UV-A and UV-B radiation. And when it comes to the sun protection factor, or SPF, we want to shoot for at least 50 for maximum effectiveness.
One option that does meet the requirements I wanted in a sunscreen is CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50. It has both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, but none of the 12 flagged ingredients from the FDA. It costs $5.59/oz on Amazon [20].
But since I’m lucky enough to live in New Zealand, I have access to sunscreens that don’t have those 12 FDA-flagged ingredients. Instead, they use newer chemical ingredients like bemotrizinol.
There are 4 famous Korean brands, and I’m not affiliated with any of them, that are great options:
- Beauty of Joseon: Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh: Rice + B5 SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [21]
- Round Lab: Birch Juice Moisturising Sunscreen SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [22]
- Skin1004: Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [23]Haruharu Wonder: Black Rice Moisture Airyfit Daily Sunscreen SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [24]
The one I’m using at the moment is Beauty of Joseon, but any of those 4 options would be a great choice.
If I didn’t have access to those sunscreens, I’d use CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50.
It leaves a subtle white film when applying it, but personally I’d prefer that rather than use a daily sunscreen with ingredients that need further study.
Especially when we consider the other concerns with sunscreens.
Scientists have found that some have harmful chemicals like benzene and benzophenone, which can cause cancer. These don't appear on labels and might form during manufacturing or over time.
In 2021, benzene was found in many sunscreens and after-sun products. The FDA says no amount of benzene is safe in these products.
Some researchers found that benzophenone can form when a common sunscreen ingredient called octocrylene breaks down. Benzophenone is bad because it's a mutagen, carcinogen, and can mess with hormones [25].
Octocrylene is one of the ingredients that were flagged by the FDA, and it's possible that all products with octocrylene might contain benzophenone.
ConsumerLab.com has more information and testing results. They also have a great list of mineral-based sunscreens that are broad spectrum and may be less problematic. I'm not affiliated with them, but I highly recommend their content.
Again, this is my own personal decision, but until we have more data I want to stay away from those 12 ingredients.
But there’s hope on the horizon for consumers in the U.S. Bemotrizinol is currently under review by the FDA. It’s been in use a long time in Europe and Australia and has been thoroughly tested [26].
It’s hoped it will be approved by the end of this year [27].
One other thing to remember about sunscreen. We need to make sure we’re applying enough. How much is enough? The SPF rating of sunscreens is tested using a thickness of 2 mg per cm2. This would work out to about a shot glass full for your entire body. But investigations show people tend to use half or less of this amount. That sharply reduces the effectiveness [28].
And the standard recommendation is to reapply every two hours, particularly when we’re exercising or in the water.
References
1. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jdv.17660
2. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/
3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27749441/
4. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7759112/
6. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK587264/
7. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10741796/
8. https://www.npr.org/2011/09/24/140736119/as-europe-ages-its-economies-look-vulnerable
10. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jama/fullarticle/2759002
11. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5615097/
12. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11022667/
14. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s43630-023-00453-x
15. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0273230023000120
16. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylhexyl_triazone
17. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tris-biphenyl_triazine
19. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31588611/
20. https://www.cerave.com/sunscreen/face/hydrating-mineral-sunscreen-face-lotion-spf-50
22. https://hikoco.co.nz/products/birch-juice-moisturising-sunscreen-spf50-pa
23. https://hikoco.co.nz/products/madagascar-centella-hyalu-cica-water-fit-sun-serum-spf50-pa
24. https://hikoco.co.nz/products/black-rice-moisture-airyfit-daily-sunscreen-spf50-broad-spectrum
25. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33682414/
26. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/allergy-to-bemotrizinol
27. https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/health/2024/05/17/fda-behind-sunscreen-skin-cancer/73672619007/
