Ever seen those red light masks promising wrinkle-free, youthful skin—and wondered if they're just overpriced gimmicks? I was sceptical too, until diving into the research and uncovering some surprising evidence that’s made me take a second look.
Does that mean I’m now ready to recommend them? Well, it’s complicated. We need to look at what current research says and ask some tough questions, like: How big is the effect? And Is this really the best way to approach skin rejuvenation?
In this article, I’ll walk you through the evidence we have and what you need to know before you spend hundreds or even thousands on one of those masks. I’ll also explain my personal approach to this emerging technology.
Table of Contents
2. Evidence of RLT and Skin Rejuvenation
5. References
Red Light Therapy
The first use of light as a therapy for the skin was to treat an infection called lupus vulgaris. A Danish doctor won a Nobel Prize in 1903 for his pioneering work in the area. He found that using ultraviolet and red light significantly improved healing.
In the middle of the 20th century, lasers began to be used for skin treatments. The powerful, concentrated light from lasers can have a dramatic impact on fine lines and wrinkles. But the aggressive action comes with an extended recovery time and potential side effects. That Danish doctor’s early work suggested there might be a way to harness the healing power of light in a gentler form.
Here’s the challenge, though. It has been known for a long time that certain specific wavelengths of light have a greater effect on the cells in our skin than others. That’s one of the key benefits of lasers. You probably know ordinary light contains a whole spectrum of wavelengths. You can see them all in a rainbow, for instance. Lasers are different. They emit light in a very narrow band. They can give us pure blue, or pure red light, for instance. But they’re relatively expensive, complex, and often more powerful than we need.
A solution came in the form of a new light technology. NASA was at the forefront of creating a novel light source that, like lasers, could produce light in a relatively narrow spectrum. But they ended up being much simpler, cheaper, and gentler. We now use this technology — LEDs — everywhere. LEDs can produce red and near-infrared light. These are wavelengths that are particularly significant when it comes to therapies for the skin.
Why? What does red light do? Research has shown it is capable of several powerful effects.
For one thing, red light is absorbed by the mitochondria — the powerhouses — in the cell. This stimulates more energy production and enhanced cellular activity [1].
Red light also combats inflammation [2].
Moreover, it stimulates fibroblasts. These are specialized cells in the skin responsible for making collagen and elastin, two crucial components that give skin its structure. As we age, collagen and elastin decrease. This is a primary driver of wrinkles and sagging skin. Red light can boost production of both [3].
So we have clinical evidence that red light stimulates important changes in the skin related to healing and rejuvenation. Red light therapy using LEDs also has some big advantages over laser therapy. There’s no downtime, no damage to the skin, and the equipment needed is much less expensive.
Evidence of RLT and Skin Rejuvenation
For these reasons, it makes sense that there would be a lot of interest in red light therapy for treating various skin problems, including the effects of aging. So what evidence do we presently have for its effectiveness in these areas? Let’s take a look.
One of the early areas of interest for red light therapy was wound healing. It has been widely studied and red light has been found effective. As we noted above, the mechanisms have to do with stimulating enhanced cellular activity and suppressing inflammation [4].
This led to the application of red light therapy for treating acne. There are some initial promising results. For instance, one clinical trial looked at the effects of 15-minute treatments of red light daily over the course of 8 weeks. It was a split-face trial, where the treatment was applied to just one side of the face. At the end of the 8 weeks, the treatment resulted in about a 50% reduction in acne lesions [5].
But this area is relatively new. There’s still a lot of uncertainty about which wavelengths of light are most helpful. Many studies have looked at blue light as well, for example. At this point, it seems the effects are real but moderate [6].
But what about the use of red light for countering the effects of aging? An early study came out in 2005. At the time, using LEDs was a novel approach. It allowed researchers to examine the impact of a narrow wavelength of light without the heat and associated damage caused by a laser.
They looked at 90 patients who received 8 treatments of amber light over 4 weeks. The results were encouraging. 90% of those studied had a reduction in signs of photoaging. This included smoother texture, a reduction of wrinkles around the eyes, and more even coloration [7].
And the researchers also examined skin samples from some of the patients. This showed significant increases in collagen [8].
But this raised an important question. Was amber the right color of light? Or would something else be more effective?
Another study set out to test two other wavelengths: red and near infrared. It was randomized, controlled, and double-blinded. 76 patients with facial wrinkles were treated on one side of the face 2 times a week for 4 weeks. The results showed significant reductions in wrinkles with both wavelengths — up to 36% — and increases in skin elasticity of up to 19% [9].
As with the previous study, treatment produced a marked increase in collagen and elastin [10].
So there’s evidence that amber, red, and near-infrared light can all reduce the signs of photoaging. But is there a clear winner? Let’s look at one additional study that compared amber light to red light for wrinkles around the eyes. Published in 2023, this split-faced trial included 137 women. They got 10 sessions of amber and red light for 4 weeks. They used one color on the right side of the face and the other on the left. Wrinkle reduction with red light was 31.6%. With amber, it was 29.9% [11].
In other words, the effects were roughly the same.
We don’t have a huge number of trials testing red light therapy for aging at this point. But the results from the small trials we have so far are positive. And, importantly, the approach is safe. One meta-analysis of existing trials found there have been no reported side effects [12].
The RLT Masks
The safety profile of LED-based red light therapy is a key reason why we now see lots of consumer devices on the market. If you look on Amazon, you’ll find a ton of red light masks that claim to dramatically improve your skin. But red light therapy using high-quality equipment in a clinical trial is one thing. Can we get similar results from an at-home device? Let’s take a look. And then I’ll tell you about how I’m approaching it.
One recent study looked at an LED mask that had red and near-infrared light. This study is a bit unusual since it included only men. Their skin was examined using digital photography and computer analysis after 6 weeks of treatment. Researchers concluded there were improvements in wrinkles and skin tone [13].
Another study, published just last year, investigated the effects of a consumer-grade LED mask. They again found “significant improvements in elasticity, sagging, and wrinkles” — across 6 areas of the face [14].
These studies are intriguing, but there are some issues we need to consider. First, at this point, we just don’t have much data. These devices are relatively new, and very few studies have been done so far.
Second, these two studies we’ve looked at both involve researchers who are connected to companies selling the kind of masks they looked at. This doesn’t necessarily mean their results are biased. But there is a clear risk of this.
Third, we’re nowhere near to a consensus about treatment specifics. There are lots of moving parts here. Which wavelengths should we use? How long should a treatment session last? How often should we do them? How strong do the lights need to be? Etc. We don’t have clear answers to any of these questions. Devices from different manufacturers differ in lots of ways. Right now, we don’t have a solid evidence-based way to choose between them.
Other Approaches
With all this uncertainty, it’s worth asking: How does red light therapy to treat skin aging compare to other available therapies? Then I’ll go through my approach to red light masks.
Well, there’s one approach to maintaining and recovering youthful, healthy skin that’s both powerful and cheap. It has two elements.
The first is sunscreen. This is fundamental. Damage due to the sun’s ultraviolet rays is the number one contributor to the aging of our skin. I tell my patients to use sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher. Personally, I use sunscreen daily and minimize sun exposure in the middle of the day. This ensures I’m not doing damage that accelerates the natural aging process.
The second element I have in mind here is using topical retinoids. Think of retinoids like personal trainers for your skin cells. Just like a trainer helps you get stronger, retinoids push your skin cells to work harder, helping them renew and making more collagen.
Retinoids also strengthen the skin's protective barrier, reduce water loss, and stop enzymes that break down the skin's support structure. One of the most widely studied is tretinoin.
Plenty of research has shown its effectiveness. One massive meta-analysis looked at 180 individual studies on tretinoin. It found that topical use helped improve the signs of photoaging in terms of wrinkles, uneven coloration, and age spots in as little as one month of use [15].
How significant can the improvement be? One case study included images of a 66-year-old woman, the first showing the appearance of her skin before treatment and the second showing how it looked after 3 months of using tretinoin. The difference is striking [16].
And there’s another approach we can take to add to the effects we can get from sunscreen and topical retinoids. We’ve already talked about the importance of collagen. Supplementing with collagen peptides — which are a form of broken-down collagen — helps stimulate collagen production. And this, in turn, helps with wrinkles.
Several studies have backed up the impact. For instance, this study published in February 2024 looked at wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration. They measured participants at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Those taking collagen peptides experienced significant improvements. Wrinkle size, elasticity, and hydration all got better [17].
I personally incorporate collagen peptides into my supplement stack. I’ve recently released a new form of MicroVitamin called MicroVitamin+ Powder. It contains 12.5 g of collagen peptides. Just because I take a supplement, though, in no way means you should also.
Finally, there are also more traditional light-based approaches to skin rejuvenation. These include a variety of laser technologies. As we discussed above, these can produce significant changes. But they are expensive and require a period of recovery.
So let’s compare these strategies for treating the signs of aging in our skin. We have well-established approaches like sunscreen plus topical retinoids that are effective, safe, and cheap. Then there are supplements like collagen peptides that give modest benefits, but are also inexpensive and safe. Traditional laser therapy is regarded as the gold standard for skin rejuvenation. It has the strongest effects. But it is quite expensive.
And that brings us to red light therapy masks. Where do they fit? They have a strong safety profile, which is a huge plus. As far as pricing, they’re a lot cheaper than lasers, but more expensive than the other strategies we’ve described. In terms of effectiveness, we have some promising data, but need more studies.
So here’s the approach I’m personally taking. I’m intrigued by the ability to use the treatment at home, the relatively small cost, and the safety. Unlike some treatments, there’s really no risk here. So I’ve decided to buy a few models and test them out over the coming months. I’ll be keeping an eye out for any changes I see in my skin. And I’ll also be paying attention to how easy they are to use. I’ll share my experiences in an upcoming article. If you’re not already following my blog, consider subscribing so you don’t miss it.
References
1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38309304/
2. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11049838/
3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33594706/
4. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4148276/
5. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17903156/
6. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11049838/
7. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/lsm.20107
8. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/lsm.20107
9. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17566756/
10. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17566756/
11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36780572/
12. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11049838/
13. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37418018/
14. https://advanced.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/adma.202411651
15. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9112391/
16. https://cdn.mdedge.com/files/s3fs-public/Document/September-2017/023010019.pdf
