Collagen is simple, safe, and cheap, and it can dramatically improve markers of skin health. A brand new study only increases our confidence in its effectiveness, while also shedding light on an important question that has not been clear until now. Which source of collagen will give us the best results, and how do we know we are taking the right kind?
Table of Contents
- What we already know
- The new study
- Protein versus peptide
- Other things to improve aging skin
- References
What we already know
Think of collagen as the scaffolding that provides structure in our muscles, bones, tendons, and skin. In the skin specifically, collagen forms a network that supports the outer layer, giving it firmness and elasticity [1].
Specialized cells in the skin, called fibroblasts, make collagen and elastin, both key components for elasticity. As we age, those fibroblasts become less active. Collagen production declines by around one to one point five percent a year from early adulthood, and existing collagen breaks down more quickly. This process is made worse by lifestyle factors such as smoking and spending time in the sun [1].
With less collagen, the skin begins to lose firmness and elasticity, and wrinkles and sagging appear. That raises a natural question: can we counteract this loss of collagen as we age?
Research says yes. Supplementing with collagen peptides has been shown to boost skin hydration and elasticity because of changes happening on a cellular level in the collagen-containing layer of the skin. Collagen peptides are long ropes of collagen chopped into smaller pieces called peptides, which are short chains of amino acids.
A common criticism is that if collagen peptides are just amino acids, then eating enough dietary protein should give the same benefit. We will return to that criticism shortly, but first let us look briefly at what studies comparing collagen peptides with placebo have found.
A randomized controlled trial in 2022 tested the effects of collagen peptides on wrinkles and skin quality over twelve weeks. Participants taking collagen peptides showed significant improvements in wrinkles, skin roughness, elasticity, and moisture compared with placebo [2].
This change is not seen in only one or two studies. A large meta analysis in 2023 reviewed twenty six randomized controlled trials and concluded that collagen supplements significantly improve skin hydration and elasticity [3].
Since that meta analysis, four additional trials have reported similar results. For instance, a February 2024 study measuring participants at four, eight, and twelve weeks found significant improvements in wrinkle size, elasticity, and hydration in those taking collagen peptides [4].
Yet an important question has come up. We can get collagen peptides from fish, cows, pigs, or chickens. Effect sizes differ among studies, leading some researchers to suggest that certain sources work better than others [3].
The new study
If that is true, we want to choose the most effective source. The authors of the new study set out to answer exactly that.
Most earlier trials used fish or pig collagen. These researchers used collagen sourced from cows. They ran a randomized, double blind, placebo controlled trial with 66 women aged 35 to 55, lasting eight weeks. They measured eye wrinkle volume plus skin elasticity and hydration [5].
Precision instruments captured three dimensional images of a selected wrinkle, measured how quickly skin bounced back after stretching, and assessed surface hydration via electrical capacitance [5].
1. Results
- Wrinkles: Eye wrinkle volume fell about 9% at four weeks and a striking 25% at eight weeks relative to placebo. One participant saw a fifty one percent reduction [5].
- Elasticity: Skin elasticity improved 6% at four weeks and nine percent at eight weeks [5].
- Hydration: Skin hydration increased 26% by week eight [5].
2. Cellular insights
To probe the mechanism, the team cultured human fibroblasts and exposed them to the same collagen peptides. Production of collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan all rose significantly [5]. These cellular changes mirror the clinical benefits.
3. Implications for collagen source
Despite using bovine collagen, the magnitude of improvement matched studies using fish or pig collagen [5]. The authors conclude that effectiveness does not appear to depend primarily on the animal species. Instead, differences may come from how the peptides are produced, such as molecular weight distribution and processing methods [5].
Protein versus peptide
Collagen peptides are chains of amino acids, so why not just eat protein? Short peptides are absorbed intact through intestinal peptide transporter one, whereas intact proteins must be fully digested first [6] [7]. This means peptides can reach the bloodstream quickly and may arrive at skin tissue in forms that directly stimulate fibroblasts.
Direct evidence comes from a 2020 randomized trial in burn patients. One group received collagen peptides and another a matched dose of soy protein. The peptide group healed significantly faster, with a hazard ratio of three point seven [8]. This suggests collagen peptides offer benefits beyond ordinary dietary protein.
For that reason I include 12.5g of collagen peptides in my MicroVitamin Plus powder. That does not mean you need to do the same, but if you decide to purchase a supplement, the research indicates the original animal source is less critical than once thought.
Other things to improve aging skin
Collagen peptides are not the only science backed tool I use.
4. Hyaluronic acid
Youthful skin relies on hyaluronic acid, a molecule with an extraordinary ability to retain moisture. Levels decline sharply with age; a seventy five year old has roughly a quarter of the hyaluronic acid found in the skin of a nineteen year old [9].
Multiple clinical trials show that oral hyaluronic acid supplements improve hydration and reduce wrinkles. A 2021 double blind trial reported an 18.8% reduction in wrinkle depth versus 2.6% with placebo [10].
A larger 2023 trial with 129 participants confirmed significant gains in hydration, tone, and epidermal thickness [11]. I therefore include hyaluronic acid in both MicroVitamin and MicroVitamin Plus.
5. Daily sunscreen
Repairing damage is valuable, but preventing it matters even more. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to sagging, spots, and increased cancer risk. A dramatic image shows a ninety two year old who wore sunscreen on her face but not her neck for forty years [12].
In a landmark 2013 trial of nine hundred three adults, those who used sunscreen every day showed no detectable increase in skin aging after four and a half years [13]. A follow up study in 2016 found daily sunscreen not only halts but actually reverses visible photoaging [14]. I apply a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF fifty or higher every morning
References
1. https://www.oaepublish.com/articles/2347-9264.2020.153
2. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36516059/
3. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10180699/
4. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37822045/
5. https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/2/79
6. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0308814614002763
7. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24767063/
8. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31859087/
9. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5522662/
10. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34933842/
11. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10661223/
12. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jdv.17660
