The World's #1 Anti-Wrinkle Cream Is Ridiculously Cheap

Are you tired of spending a fortune on fancy anti-wrinkle products? Well, the most effective one might cost you much less than your morning coffee!

In this blog post, we'll dive into why this affordable cream works so well and how you can choose the best version and ingredients for your skin. We'll explore what actually causes our skin to age and wrinkle, look at other anti-wrinkle ingredients that truly deliver results based on human clinical research, and debunk the ones that are just hype.

By the end, you'll know exactly why our skin ages and how to combat it effectively without breaking the bank.

And it's not just about looking good. How our skin looks reflects our chances of living a long life. [1]

How Our Skin Ages

1. Intrinsic Aging

Our skin ages from the inside and the outside. While both are important, this post will focus on aging from the outside.

2. Extrinsic Aging

Extrinsic aging is caused by environmental factors like sun exposure, pollution, and lifestyle choices. Over 100 years ago, people first noticed this type of aging and called it "farmer's skin" or "sailor's skin."
Today, we have a much better understanding of which skin cream ingredients are best and safe to combat extrinsic aging.

Extrinsic aging affects the parts of our body that are often exposed to the sun, like our face, neck, and arms. The skin gets rough, has deep wrinkles, changes color, and shows tiny red blood vessels called telangiectasia. There can also be different kinds of skin spots and growths.

Here is a photo of a truck driver who had the sun shining on one side of his face for years. You can see how that side is much more wrinkled and damaged than the other side. [2]

Here's a striking photo of a 92-year-old who used the world's best anti-wrinkle cream—sunscreen—on her face but not on her neck for over 40 years. [3]

The Importance of Anti-Wrinkle Creams

And the only pushback against sunscreen I've seen online is about safety, which we'll cover shortly because there have been some important developments in recent years.

But first, in a landmark 2013 trial of 903 adults, the group who used sunscreen every day didn't show any signs of skin aging after 4.5 years! [4]

A follow-up study in 2016 showed that using sunscreen not only stops aging but can even reverse signs of aging in the skin. [5]

Understanding Sunscreen: Mineral vs. Chemical

Broadly speaking, there are two main types of sunscreens: mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens.

While chemical sunscreens often give better protection against UV rays, are easier to apply, and are water-resistant, many of their ingredients can be absorbed through the skin. A study in 2020 showed that all six tested active ingredients were absorbed into the blood and were above the FDA's safety levels. [6]

Note that the study doesn't show harm from these chemicals; it just shows that they are absorbed at higher quantities than the pre-existing safety thresholds.

But this made people worry that these ingredients might mess with hormones or cause other health problems.

The American Academy of Dermatology acknowledges this in their guidelines, where they state that the FDA wants more data on 12 ingredients before deciding if they are safe and effective.

"Ingredients commonly used in the U.S.: Ensulizole, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, avobenzone.
Ingredients not frequently used in the U.S.: Cinoxate, dioxybenzone, meradimate, padimate O, sulisobenzone." [7]

Concerns About Sunscreen Ingredients

And here's where there's a bit of a communication breakdown. Let me explain.

While the FDA is asking for more data, it does not say that the ingredients are unsafe. It does not ask the public to stop using sunscreens that contain any of these ingredients.

The authors of that 2020 study also said:

"These findings do not indicate that individuals should refrain from the use of sunscreen."[6]

The American Academy of Dermatology adds,

"Just because an ingredient is absorbed into the bloodstream does not mean that it is harmful or unsafe," and "the science doesn't show that any sunscreen ingredients currently available in the U.S. are harmful to human health." [7]

But personally, I find that a bit of a tall ask.

Overall, these organizations acknowledge that we need more studies on certain sunscreen ingredients, but equally we shouldn't stop using them because we don't know for sure if there's an issue?

This is me probably being far too over-cautious, but I don't find that good enough. I'd rather stay away from ingredients that have open questions about their safety.

These concerns have steered many people away from chemical sunscreens and toward mineral sunscreen ingredients which are not absorbed through the skin.

But even though some sunscreens are marketed as mineral-based sunscreens, many of the labels are sneaky, and we'll get to that shortly by looking at a famous "mineral sunscreen".

Choosing the Best Mineral Sunscreen

The only two sunscreen ingredients that the FDA says are generally safe and effective are the mineral compounds titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. They work by blocking UV rays, while chemical sunscreens absorb them.

Zinc oxide protects against both UVB (which causes sunburn) and UVA (which causes wrinkles and age spots). Titanium dioxide mostly protects against UVB and less against UVA, and can make the sunscreen feel lighter and less likely to leave a white film on our skin.

So if we're going to select a mineral sunscreen, it's vital to have Zinc Oxide in it to offer that broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB.

But be warned that higher amounts of these ingredients don't always mean better sun protection. SPF numbers show how well a sunscreen protects against sunburn (UVB), not UVA.

Also, some sunscreens have other ingredients that can reduce redness and boost SPF, but we don't know if they reduce other kinds of skin damage.

So, the amount of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide doesn't always tell us how well it protects. To make sure that we get enough protection, ideally we want a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 and make sure it says "broad spectrum," which means it protects against both UVB and UVA.

And no matter what sunscreen we use, the American Academy of Dermatology says we should reapply it every two hours, or more if we're swimming or sweating. That's because sunscreen can rub off, and most people don't put on enough in the first place.

ConsumerLab.com has a great list of mineral-based sunscreens that are broad spectrum and may be less problematic.[8]

Safe Sunscreen Options

But even still, we need to look at the labels ourselves.

For example, EltaMD is a really popular choice as a mineral-based sunscreen. But if we look at the ingredients list, while it does contain Zinc Oxide, it also contains Octinoxate, which is one of the chemical sunscreen ingredients that was flagged by that 2020 study as one of the ingredients that's absorbed through the skin and needs further study.[6]

Plus, octinoxate was banned in Hawaii due to their potential toxic effects on marine ecosystems.[10]

You can see that it's a bit of a minefield when trying to select a sunscreen that doesn't have any of those 12 FDA-flagged ingredients but still offers broad-spectrum protection with SPF 50+.

1. CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50

One option that does meet the requirements I wanted in a sunscreen is CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50. It has both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, but none of the 12 flagged ingredients from the FDA.

CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 [11]

It costs $5.36/oz on Amazon, but it can leave a white film on our skin which isn't ideal.

Now there are certainly other options, but I mention this one because it's relatively cheap and it meets the requirements that I was looking for, especially when we consider the other concerns with sunscreens.

Scientists have found that some sunscreens have harmful chemicals like benzene and benzophenone, which can cause cancer. These don't appear on labels and might form during manufacturing or over time.

In 2021, benzene was found in many sunscreens and after-sun products. The FDA says no amount of benzene is safe in these products. ConsumerLab.com has more information and testing results. I'm not affiliated with them, but I highly recommend their content.

Some researchers found that benzophenone can form when a common sunscreen ingredient called octocrylene breaks down. Benzophenone is bad because it's a mutagen, carcinogen, and can mess with hormones.

Octocrylene is one of the ingredients that were flagged by the FDA, and it's possible that all products with octocrylene might contain benzophenone.

Again, this is my own personal decision, but until we have more data, I want to stay away from those 12 ingredients.

But out of all of this mess, there's hope on the horizon.

Understanding Bemotrizinol

There's a chemical sunscreen ingredient that offers the best of both worlds called bemotrizinol. It gives great UVA and UVB protection, but it's a large molecule and doesn't get absorbed through the skin.

Chemical Name: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine [12]

It's been used in sunscreens for decades in Europe and Australasia. It is marketed under the brand names Tinosorb S.

But it's still awaiting FDA approval in the USA.[12]

It has been thoroughly tested, and it's hoped that Bemotrizinol will be FDA approved by the end of 2025. [13]

But since I'm lucky enough to live in New Zealand, I have access to sunscreens that don't have those 12 FDA-flagged ingredients and instead use newer chemical ingredients like bemotrizinol.

Korean Sunscreen Brands

There are four famous Korean brands, and I'm not affiliated with any of them, that are great options, and I'll list them below.

• Beauty of Joseon: Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh: Rice + B5 SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [17]
• Round Lab: Birch Juice Moisturising Sunscreen SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [18]
• Skin1004: Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [19]
• Haruharu Wonder: Black Rice Moisture Airyfit Daily Sunscreen SPF50+ Broad Spectrum [20]

The one I'm using at the moment is Beauty of Joseon, but any of those four options would be a great choice.

If I didn't have access to those sunscreens, I'd use CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50.

CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 [11]

Again, it leaves a white film when applying it, but personally, I'd prefer that than use a daily sunscreen with ingredients that need further study.

Other Anti-Wrinkle Ingredients

Ceramides

The first is a moisturizer with ceramides. Ceramides are like the glue that holds our skin cells together, keeping our skin barrier strong and healthy.

In 2019, a study showed that ceramides can reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.[14]

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)

Another helpful ingredient is Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide. Niacinamide helps many processes in our body. It can improve fine lines, wrinkles, spots, redness, and elasticity. It also helps our skin make ceramides.

And Vitamin B3 in skin creams is recommended by the clinical guidelines.[15]

I use CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion right after my shower in the morning for the ceramides.

CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion [16]

Then I have breakfast, and before I leave the house, I apply the Beauty of Joseon sunscreen.

Beauty of Joseon: Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh: Rice + B5 SPF50+ Broad Spectrum[17]

For my arms, the Beauty of Joseon is too expensive.

In New Zealand, the supermarket sunscreens still contain ingredients that are flagged by the FDA. I understand that the FDA has just asked for more information and isn't warning against these ingredients, but out of an abundance of caution, I'd prefer to avoid the 12 ingredients for now until we have more data.

So I use the CeraVe mineral sunscreen on my arms and back of my neck.
CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 [11]

When I go swimming, though, mineral sunscreens tend to wash off too quickly. So instead of using the CeraVe mineral sunscreen, I use La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Wet Skin SPF50+, which is a chemical sunscreen.
La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Wet Skin SPF50+ [21]

It does have a couple of FDA-flagged ingredients, but on a balance of benefit vs. risk, I want to make sure that I have protection from the UV radiation. So I opt for the lesser of two evils and use the La Roche Posay sunscreen.

Retinoid Creams

To finish off my skincare routine, there are a couple of other creams I use at night.

Retinoids are forms of vitamin A. These creams can make our skin cells more active, especially the ones that make new skin and collagen. Think of retinoid creams like personal trainers for your skin cells. Just like a trainer helps you get stronger, retinoids push your skin cells to work harder, helping them renew and make more collagen.

Retinoid creams also strengthen the skin's protective barrier, reduce water loss, and stop enzymes that break down the skin's support structure.

Many studies have confirmed these effects. For example, a study in 2007 showed that using retinol lotion improved wrinkles and made the skin stronger.[14] [22]

When first using retinoid creams, it can make the skin more sensitive and inflamed. So, these creams are usually used at night, and it's recommended to always wear sunscreen during the day. Pregnant women should not use these creams.

There are two common types of retinoid creams: adapalene and tretinoin.

Adapalene is less irritating and is more targeted to the skin receptors. Tretinoin is an older version and can cause more irritation. [23]

But which one is better for aging skin?

In a head-to-head trial in 2018, both adapalene and tretinoin were equally good at reversing signs of skin aging. [24]

So, adapalene might be the better choice since it's less irritating and works just as well.

In New Zealand, we don't have the higher strength 0.3% adapalene, so I use tretinoin 0.05% at night. But not every night, and that brings me to the next cream I use.

Exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs

Lactic acid and glycolic acid are exfoliants. Over time, they affect the deeper layers of the skin and reduce wrinkles. They help collagen and elastin grow again, making fine lines less noticeable. [25]

These recommendations are based on studies like one where using lactic acid increased skin firmness, thickness, and improved smoothness and appearance of lines and wrinkles. [26]

Lactic acid and glycolic acid are called alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

There's also beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid.

Both alpha and beta hydroxy acids help remove dead skin cells and promote skin renewal.

So, on Monday and Thursday nights, I apply both the alpha and beta hydroxy acids and leave them on overnight.

Paula's Choice SKIN PERFECTING 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant & 2% BHA Liquid [27]

For most people, they shouldn't also use retinoid creams at the same time as these exfoliants, as it will significantly inflame the skin. My skin is fine with mixing the retinoid creams, so I use the retinoid every night, but that's not standard practice.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the world's number one anti-wrinkle cream—sunscreen—is ridiculously cheap for the results it gives.

It's just a few cents a day and makes a huge difference.

References

1. Facial appearance and skin wrinkling study
2. NEJM Truck Driver Photo
3. 92-Year-Old Sunscreen Photo
4. 2013 Sunscreen Trial
5. 2016 Sunscreen Follow-Up Study
6. 2020 Sunscreen Absorption Study
7. American Academy of Dermatology Sunscreen Stats
8. ConsumerLab.com Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens
9. EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
10. Octinoxate Marine Toxicity Study
11. CeraVe Mineral Sunscreen
12. Bemotrizinol Information
13. FDA Approval of Bemotrizinol
14. Ceramides Study
15. Niacinamide Study
16. CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion
17. Beauty of Joseon Sunscreen
18. Round Lab Sunscreen
19. Skin1004 Sunscreen
20. Haruharu Wonder Sunscreen
21. La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Wet Skin SPF50+
22. JAMA Dermatology Retinol Study
23. Topical Retinoids Information
24. 2018 Retinoid Trial
25. Alpha Hydroxy Acid Treatments
26. Lactic Acid Study
27. Paula's Choice Exfoliants